VZ City Guides: Nashville, TN

By Daniel Collins
Published: June 4th, 2009 | 9:35pm

Nicknames: Music City, USA; Nash Vegas
Population: About 1.5 mil in the metro
Up-and-coming parts of town: 12South district and East Nashville

It doesn't take long to realize that dismissing Nashville as an over-commercialized country-politan fly-over zone is not giving credit where much cred is due. Whether Jack White's recent move to Nashville to set up his new HQ is indeed part of the broader trend called “The Nashville Effect” or not, the fact remains: as home to 180 recording studios, 130 music publishers, 100 live music clubs, and 80 record labels, Nashville's cultural footprint simply cannot be overestimated. Nevertheless, Nashville is not New York or LA, and it doesn’t want to be; it’s got the cultural infrastructure of the most cosmopolitan cities while resisting the sprawl of your average outta control megalopolis. In other words, your chances of running into Nicole Kidman (or the ghost of well-loved native, Bettie Mae Page) are actually quite high.

Dates:
Enjoy jazz and wine from all over the country at Wine on the River, which lines the Shelby Street Pedestrian Bridge in mid-September. For the more quirky and culturally adventureous, try the Tomato Art Fest in early August. Located in historic East Nashville’s Five Points area (“Nashville’s version of New York’s East Village” according to some) this free, costume-friendly event provides a fun-filled day for thousands. The Nashville Film Festival is a cultural institution older than Sundance and takes place each year in April. It features hundreds of independent films and is one of the biggest film festivals in the southern United States. And of course, you can’t miss the Music City Jazz, Blues & Heritage Festival in September – a premier multicultural outdoor music fest at Riverfront Park.

Sights:
Even if you don’t make it for Wine on the River, the view of the riverfront and downtown skyline from the Shelby Bridge begs a visit on its own terms, just don’t go during a Titans home game – unless getting stampeded into a coliseum is your thing.

As far as requisite country music tourism goes, you certainly should make the rounds from the Country Music Hall of Fame to the Ryman Auditorium to the Grand Ole Opry (all of which are worth the trip). But if you’re short on time and you have to choose just one musical destination, be sure to hit up the Bluebird Cafe. It’s by far the most unlikely, unpretentious strip mall joint you could ever imagine to be an open mic Mecca, having launched gads of singer-songwriters into stardom. Experiencing a few sets in-the-round will make your long wait outside seem worthwhile (the queue often circles the block, so give yourself extra time).

Right in the center of Midtown, off Vanderbilt University’s West End Avenue area and the neighboring art galleries, sits the Parthenon in Centennial Park. It’s certainly easier than making a trip to Athens, Greece, and Nashville's scale replica of the original Parthenon is nothing to sneeze at, even though its only two-thirds the actual size. While walking through Centennial Park, bring out your inner child with a stop at the duck feeding pond, then check out a real steam engine train from the 1800's and a classic fighter jet suspended atop a giant metal post.

Fare:
Although you might gawk at the price of the Sunday morning brunch buffet at the Copper Kettle, it is one southern culinary delight you won’t regret. For another great weekend indulgence – especially if you find yourself in Music City on a rainy day – try an indie brewery tour. We recommend the barrels and kegs at the Yazoo Brewing Company or regional favorite, Boscos.

And now for the main course! For years, Arnold’s Country Kitchen has been named the definitive "Meat-and-Three" Nashville establishment. (For those who aren’t in the know, “Meat-and-Three” is a standard southern plate consisting of your choice of meat, plus three vegetable side dishes – something not to be passed up in Nash Vegas.) Stop in at friendly neighborhood joint, Rotier’s, for a hamburger and milkshake, consistently voted the best in town. Another great mid-range option is Tayst, Nashville's first restaurant to comply with the rigorous standards of the Green Restaurant Association.

Moving up in price, Cafe Nonna, located in Sylvan Park, is an intimate neighborhood Italian spot that keeps its menu small and its dishes impeccably prepared. The chef at Margot, a quirky local restaurant in Five Points, is considered by many to be Nashville’s best. For a sweet treat to seal the deal, you must try the legendary Bobbie's Dairy Dip.

Nights:
The honky tonks (a.k.a. bars with live music) on Lower Broadway and Printers Alley are the one stop we simply will not allow you to forego. In particular, Robert’s Western World and Tootsies Orchid Lounge are musts. A visit to the Station Inn, located in the middle of the trendy Gulch area of 12th Avenue, feels like a time warp – this bar’s Bluegrass and old-time Americana shows have drawn loyal patrons for decades.

The Belcourt Theatre is a historic venue that doubles as the city's reigning independent music house and unique destination for the best foreign, independent, and classic film screenings, plus cutting-edge live theatre. Also worth mentioning: they serve beverages during all their shows.

Merch:
It’s undoubtedly due to the rise of rhinestones and Nashville neon that the use of “Nash Vegas” has entered common parlance. You'll find no shortage of cowgirl paraphernalia cruising down lower Broadway. Head over to Grimey’s New and Pre-Loved Music, the iconic record shop that anchors the Nashville music scene, to find local independent music’s ground zero. But if Grimey's is just not enough, be sure to stop off at Ernest Tubb.

Just south of Vanderbilt University in Hillsboro Village, you'll find a strip of unique shops including Nashville's most popular used bookstore, BookMan / BookWoman, and local designer fashion shop, Pangaea. Then learn to love consumerism again at Fire Finch, bubbling over with unique threads, jewelry, and gifts to take home with you.

The 12South district is home to bunches of fun (albeit pricey) vintage stores. Katy K Designs boasts country western attire that makes even Roy Rogers look like an amateur. Savant Vintage Couture is a boutique with an extensive collection of retro furs (if you’re into that sort of thing) and your occasional pair of 1940s Yves St. Laurent pumps. For the best selection of DIY stuff by local designers, make sure to make Local Honey the last stop on your rounds.

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If there is a special city you'd like to see, or a killer hot spot we somehow overlooked in this guide, email VZ City Guides editor, Erica Phillips, at cityguide (at) venuszine (dot-com).