VZ City Guides: Charleston, SC

By Katherine Lapelosa
Published: July 1st, 2009 | 9:45am

Nicknames: Chucktown, The Holy City
Population: 720K or so in the metro area
Up-and-Coming Parts of Town: Upper King Street, Elliotborough / Cannonborough, East Bay Street

Charleston flies low on the southern city radar because it is not typical among most conservative post-Confederate towns. Picture Stephen Colbert and Edgar Allen Poe dining on fried green tomatoes and sipping sweet tea as you stroll through historic alleyways lined with affluent, colorful buildings. It’s easy, and expected, that you might get lost — just ask a friendly local for directions. You’ll be met with southern charm and maybe even an invitation to a plantation oyster shuck. Just don’t forget your Polos and pearls, folks — you’re south of the Mason-Dixon line now.

Dates:
Charleston’s most famous festival no doubt is Piccolo Spoleto, held at the beginning of summer each year. Celebrity artists mingle with local thespians, dancers, musicians, and enthusiasts as the city comes alive during this 2-week festival. Some of the best (and cheapest) events take place at the College of Charleston (a.k.a. “CofC”), showing off its talented and multifaceted resident faculty and student artists. The underground version of Spoleto is the new Kulture Klash, a biannual event of young artists, musicians, and supporters of indie culture, sponsored by Charleston’s Most Unique directory. Past performances include extreme hula-hoopers, graffiti art demonstrations, and burlesque acts. Buy art from up-and-coming painters, sip on locally brewed beer, and munch on Chucktown's tastiest organic snacks.

Think New York, Paris, and Milan are the only fashion capitals in the world? Charleston’s annual springtime Fashion Week has been hoisting up the white tents with local designers and fashion merchandisers for the past few years as well. Events include the Emerging Designers contest, after parties, and the notorious “Stiletto Stampede” race to raise money for the local hospital.

Sites:
A free afternoon in Chas is best spent marveling at the varied historical architecture. Head to the Battery, the southernmost point of the peninsula where White Point Gardens make for an excellent backdrop to Revolutionary and Civil War mansion hunting (get there at sunrise to spot dolphins off the coast). Charleston has earned a rep as one of the most haunted cities in the USA, so a visit to the Old Jail or Provost Dungeon is sure to make your spine tingle. Get free lodging by volunteering overnight in one of their cells, testing for paranormal activity!

For museums off the tourist track, head to Redux Contemporary Arts Center. This fairly new venture is Charleston’s only contemporary art gallery, displaying local artists’ work in and among 15 private studios. Similarly, the unique and ever-expanding Halsey Gallery on CofC’s campus invites famous artists, locals and faculty to feature pieces here. Once you’re done inside, stroll through the arcade and view paintings, photography, and sculpture created by the college’s talented art students. And yes, both galleries are totally free.

Fare:
Ask any Charlestonian what their favorite pastime is and they’ll probably respond, “eating.” That’s because Charleston has some of the greatest independent eats around. Jestine’s Kitchen and Hominy Grill are fantastic places to sample traditional Southern meals. Being coastal gives Charleston the advantage of an amazing seafood harvest all year round. Try Fish Restaurant on fashionable Upper King Street for a locavore’s treat.

Being a college town, you’ll find plenty of places that cater to the strapped-for-cash college crowd. Five Loaves Café creates eclectically delicious dishes and homemade soups using local ingredients. Hoagie Haven on George Street serves sandwiches, burgers and breakfast all day. If you’re adventurous, try their Kind Sub, stacked high with mozzarella sticks and chicken parm. The legendary Dollar Dog Man always sets up shop for the lunch rush at the corner of King and George streets. Get a fresh hot wiener with ketchup and mustard for a dollar (25 cents for extra toppings). Yeah, he’s pretty much the man.

Nights:
The awesome thing about Charleston is that there is a party going on all night, every night, somewhere. Live music and dancing is best partaken of at the Music Farm, a concert hall converted from an old train barn. Theater 99 boasts its “Laugh for a Lincoln” $5 improv nights, and the Footlight Players perform contemporary, edgy theatrics during their late night show series. Or if you’re in the mood for a glitzy glamorous drag show, don’t pass up a trip to the Pantheon.

Upper King Street is your best choice for drinking on a budget, while East Bay Street calls to a wealthier, more mature crowd. Local haunts include Juanita Greenberg's Nacho Royale, Social Wine Bar (promoting “sustainably produced” wines), and D’Allesandro’s Pizza (trivia and mayhem). But no trip to Charleston is complete without experiencing Chucktown’s number one dive. Relive your college days at A.C.’s Bar and Grill alongside rowdy Greek-lifers, plaid-clad hipsters and under-agers in between. The partying carries over into Sunday, when A.C.’s caters their Hangover Helper Brunch.

Merch:
When it comes to duds and swag, places like Factor Five vintage clothing and piercing shop, Blue Bicycle Books, 52.5 Records and the Charleston Farmer’s Market keep inexpensive consumer independence alive. The city is home to talented couturiers like Rachel Gordon, Leigh Magar and Lula Kate. Their pieces are certainly worth a view and a chat with the designers, who are friendly and usually in-house. Check out their websites or the Charleston City Paper for events like trunk shows and open houses, where discounts are plentiful and generous.

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If there is a special city you'd like to see, or a killer hot spot we somehow overlooked in this guide, email VZ City Guides editor, Erica Phillips, at cityguide (at) venuszine (dot-com).