1 Abigail Glaum-Lanthbury at work
Second City Style
Issue #36
3 up-and-coming Chicago designers to watch
By Kelly Mellott
Published: June 1st, 2008 | 11:17am
Eskell
As far as Eskell founders Kelly Whitesell and Elizabeth Del Castillo are concerned, Chicago might not have it all, but it certainly has enough. “I don’t think people here aren’t fashion-forward or interested,” Whitesell says. “They’re limited to what they are exposed to.” And that’s where Eskell comes in, exposing customers to their line of classic, feminine garments with vintage-inspiration as well as pieces by some of their favorite designers at their Wicker Park boutique.
“Eskell is about bringing what you love about the past into the present but with the idea that it will be a treasure for the future as well,” Whitesell says. “We are essentially always trying to recreate the feeling you get when you find the ultimate piece of clothing that you know you will wear forever.” (eskell.com)
Abigail Glaum-Lanthbury
Originally from Philadelphia, Abigail Glaum-Lanthbury found her place in the Midwest upon graduation from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. “The more time I spent in the city, the more I realized that most things were fantastically accessible,” she says.
Though her roots are in fine arts, Glaum-Lanthbury draws inspiration from the world of academia. Her current collection, inspired by entomology (the study of insects), references the wraps and layers of a paper wasp nest and the elongated abdomens of beetles. Her previous collection was inspired by neuroscience — how’s that for combining beauty and brains?
“If I could move into a natural history museum, I would,” Glaum-Lanthbury says. “I find it endlessly amazing that nature’s solution to survival could turn out something like a metallic blue bug or that a honeycomb could be so mathematically genius and incredibly beautiful.” (abigail-glaum-lathbury.com)
Apparatchik
For Apparatchik designer Tram Nguyen, working in the Chicago fashion industry has been nothing but positive. “All the designers I’ve met have been so kind and generous in sharing advice,” Nguyen says. “We have such a small community; I feel like there is a sense of camaraderie. There’s no need for cattiness.” Nguyen has generated a collection that speaks of modern tribalism, drawing inspiration from the 1979 film The Warriors and Eugene Hutz from the gypsy-punk band Gogol Bordello, juxtaposing quilting technique with metallics and bright colors.
“With all these new ‘fast fashion’ chains cropping up, it’s easy to buy a trendy dress for absolutely nothing,” Nguyen says. “My clothing is a response to this, the sartorial equivalent of the ‘slow food’ movement. I want to create clothing that is ethically produced and lasts more than one season.”
(apparatchikdesign.com)
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