We heart Makool

Portland-based designer Anisa Makhoul of Makool Loves You talks trends, Oregon appeal, and Coco Chanel

By Emily Anderson
Published: February 13th, 2009 | 12:30pm

The Portland fashion scene seems to be developing its own unique aesthetic. What do you think influences that aesthetic and how does your work fit in?

It's so cliché to say it but Portland is full of Pioneer Spirit, really. Of course there are the things everyone knows about Portland: we like our renewable resources, bicycles, and pride ourselves on progressiveness. Really what stands out to me is that every artisan here is blazing their own trail in how they do what they do. It's as if this city is built for people to do what they love, and it's full of support for it's artists, designers, chefs, and artisans.

Are you a full-time designer? How long did it take you to reach this point?

Yep, I'm a full time designer. I started out selling my designs at the Portland Saturday Market. There are a ton of selling opportunities for designers here; we have street fairs for all the art crawls, and I hear Crafty Wonderland is also a good place to sell. There have been times in my past where I've taken on a real job out of necessity, but working for others I quickly come to the decision that it's not for me. I'd rather work my butt off for myself; right now I'm working seven days a week for Makool.

You sell select items by Leanne Marshall in your online store. How has Leanne's success drawn attention to or changed the Portland scene?

Leanne is a really talented designer; we have a lot of talented designers in Portland. I don't think anyone has been shocked by Leanne's win, in fact I think most people expected it.

You implement a lot organic/sustainable fabrics into your line of clothing. How important is it to you to as a designer to provide your clientele with eco-friendly options? How important is to you as a consumer to have such options?

Sometimes I don't think eco-friendly options are as important as making things well, so they last and you don't have to buy them again — that comes first. Second, I think it's important to pay everyone who's worked on my garments a living wage; this means I would never have things made overseas. I love this city and I want to feed the local economy. Providing sustainable fabrics come third to me, it still takes the same resources to transport the fiber around until they become the shirt on your back. There are a lot of factors that go into fabric making and in some cases it could be better for our environment to buy a non-organic cotton fabric that's a mill-end remnant and in stock at the local store then ordering organic cotton from California and having it dyed in Colorado then shipping it to Portland. In the end I try to do the best I can when it comes to fabric sourcing.

What will your spring collection be like? What is it influenced by?

Spring will be a little bit more tailored then Makool has been in the past. The collection will come out in small sections between the end of February until summer. I like to make designs and get them out into the public eye as immediately as possible – this gives me a chance to see what people like and what's working.

Who are your personal fashion icons?

Coco Chanel of course, because of where she came from and where she ended up, and my friends who love life and laugh hard and just glow with their beauty.

What was one of your proudest moments as a designer?

Tying with Nike for a Portland City design award; they have endless resources and I photographed my piece in my backyard, on my best friend.

I love the little unexpected flourishes you add to your garments. Where did you get the inspiration for such things?

Thank you. I was looking at a lot of wedding gowns; I think Vera Wang has an unexpected aesthetic that speaks to me because it feels a bit crafty. Also, a couple of seasons back, Rodarte did a collection inspired by Degas drawings of the ballet, those really spoke to me and made me want to work with chiffon.

What's your personal fashion sense like and how does it manifest itself in the garments you create?

You know how men fashion designers can get away with appearing on stage wearing all black, or a t-shirt and jeans? That's me: I totally do not look like I work in the fashion industry. Although, as I find myself more in the public eye, I will start lining up the vintage dresses in my closet. So, it's either t-shirt and jeans or simple vintage dress.

View the Makool line at store.makoollovesyou.com